Philly Home Girls agent Kate McCann set off to Portugal for the second time. The first was with just her husband but this go round they traveled with her family. We all sat at the office in envy while she had a trip that unfolded over 9 nights. We’re thrilled she shared her details of what they did, ate and tips on where to visit because we are ready to pack our bags!
What was your itinerary?
We spent 3 nights in Lisbon, 3 nights in the Douro Valley, and 3 nights in Porto. I’ve really learned that staying in a place or region for only 2 nights feels too rushed. I’d love even more time, but we tried to pack as much into 9 nights as we possibly could! I had previously done a trip with my husband to Lisbon and the southern regions of the country (Alentejo and Algarve), so this trip we wanted to focus more on the northern parts! We were also with my family on this trip.
What hidden gem, unexpected spot, or experience(s) totally charmed you?
Each area we went to, we did one planned tour or guided event to learn a bit more from the locals, and then the rest of our time was ‘ours.’ During our day trip to Sintra, about 40 minutes from Lisbon, we saw one of the more underrated and less-visited palaces in the area. Most people see Pena Palace (which we did on our last trip!), but we wanted to see something a little different. We visited Quinta da Regaleira with our guide, which is a property full of mysticism. Its woods feel like a fairytale, and it has a secret well that takes you 7 flights down underground. People used to perform Free Mason initiation rituals blindfolded down in the well. Very crazy and cool! That same day our guide took us to a local beach near Sintra that was truly stunning.
What meal from your trip would you wish to have again in front of you right now?
On the day we spent in the Douro Valley visiting wineries, our tour guide’s wife cooked us lunch (she’s a private chef!) at their family home. We sat outside with a view of the valley, and she brought us amazing, local food course by course. With the appetizers, she served this baked Portuguese bread stuffed with local cheese, mushrooms, and parsley. It was so savory and simple, and I keep thinking about recreating it.
What was the thing everyone said to do while there, and did it live up to the hype?
We skipped most of the hype things. No one in our group loves standing in a line or being in crowds, so the Harry Potter bookstore in Porto (Livraria Lello) or the castle in Lisbon (Castelo de São Jorge) didn’t seem worth it to us. I’m sure they’re amazing things to see, but this girl does not love to wait and slowly walk through sights with people everywhere. I’d rather wander the streets and find cool stores or coffee shops to hang out in. Which we did! I was so excited to be out with my dad one morning and found a really cool coffee shop in Lisbon, The Folks, that reminded me of Thank You Thank You.
If you could teleport back to one scene from your trip, just for 10 mins, where would you go?
I wish I could go back to sitting outside of a random, roadside cafe (look for the Delta coffee signs everywhere!) with my husband, Matteo. We went out for a sunset drive while in the Douro region, and found this little cafe overlooking the region. The Super Bocks (Portugal’s beer) were about 1 euro, and we sat for an hour just enjoying the sunshine. We were the only people there! (Ok, maybe the two locals got up and left when we arrived, but I’m allowed to drink beer, too!)
I’d also love to be back at our hotel in the Douro Valley. Octant Douro is where we stayed, and it’s the sister property of another Octant location we stayed at in 2023 in Evora. Their hotels are stunning! They’re very design-inspired, totally incorporated into the region’s nature, and the service is so thoughtful. They are really reasonably priced for the food, views, and service that you get (the breakfast buffet!!!). They have 8 hotels all around Portugal, and we look forward to being able to visit another one day. The one in the Douro is built into the side of the Douro River, with infinity pools overlooking the water, a private boat that will take you out for a picnic or sunset cruise, and two delicious restaurants.
If a friend was heading to Portugal tomorrow, what would your top tips be? (aside from pack good shoes)
Try going to at least one region outside of the major cities! I always love seeing the countryside and small towns/villages while in Europe. I feel like you get a better sense of the local culture and get to experience their nature and different ways of living. I love renting a car, finding a gas station (the espresso bars in Italian gas stations are secretly so great!), and exploring. While I really do love to walk, being able to drive around without a destination allows you to relax in a different way. Portugal is really easy to drive in compared to other areas of Europe, so I highly recommend it if you aren’t used to renting a car abroad.
I use a mix of Instagram, Conde Nast Traveler, Google, Airbnb (for tours, too!), and Eater to plan trips. I’m always combing websites and blogs to find interesting places to eat and sleep, and hang out! I always make a Google Maps of the region I’m going to tag places I find interesting. It doesn’t mean we have to squeeze them all in, but if I’m wandering an area wondering where to eat or grab a drink, maybe I already have a neat-looking spot that is marked nearby! I find it really helpful, so you aren’t wasting time on your phone when on vacation.
The perfect treasure-hunting weekend is only 1.5 hours away. Head to Adamstown, PA in Lancaster county and enjoy a visit to the antique capital of the US.